FREE crochet poppy pattern


free corchet poppy pattern

You will need:

cotton DK yarn in red and black

3mm hook


Brooch back


I am happy for these crochet poppies to be sold to raise money for charity and would love for you to share photos of them on social media!!

In black ch 6 and join with a sl st

Round 1    Ch2, make 12 htr in the ring, join with sl st to 1st htr, (12)

Fasten off black

Round 2    Join red in any htr, make (1dc, 1htr) in same place as join, make 2tr in the next stitch, make (1htr, 1dc) in next stitch, *make (1dc, 1htr) in next stitch, 2tr in the following stitch (1htr, 1dc) in next stitch**, repeat from * to ** sl st to first dc

Round 3    in same stitch as sl st make 1dc, 1htr, make 2 tr in each of the next 4 stitches, make 1htr, 1dc in next stitch, *make 1dc, 1htr in next stitch, 2tr in each of next 4 stitches, 1 htr, 1dc in next stitch** repeat from * to** twice more, sl st in first dc of same round

Round 4    *dc in each of the next 10 stitches, sl st in the next 2 stitches**, repeat from * to ** 3 more times, fasten off.

Weave in ends, sew on button and beads, add a felt back and brooch back.

Copyright © Re-made by Sam 2017

This pattern is solely for your personal use and should

not be used to make products intended to be sold (unless for charity)

Copyright © Re-made by Sam 2017

This pattern is solely for your personal use and should

not be used to make products intended to be sold (unless for charity)

Jessica’s Trellis Scarf

This afternoon I had a one to one session with a lovely customer who wanted to make a scarf for her sister. We had a look online for patterns that she might like but couldn’t find anything that quite matched what she was looking for. So we designed one together!!

This is the pattern that we came up with and we loved it so much that I thought I’d share it with you all! There are no accompanying photos at the moment because I haven’t had the chance to finish mine so please do share yours if you make one.

It’s a rectangular scarf (long and thin rather than cowl/shawl shaped) and is made in alternating blocks of half trebles and lace.

You can make it with any yarn weight (we used super chunky) and matching hook size. Simply adjust the starting chain to be a length that suits the width of the scarf you would like. Due to the lacy sections it would be lovely for summer!

Special stitch back loop half treble (blhtr), yoh put hook through back strand of the v (strand that is furthest from you), yoh, pull back through (3 loops on hook), yoh pull through all 3 loops

Ch20 (or a number that is a multiple of 6 plus 2)

Row 1              make 1htr in 3rd ch from hook and every ch along (18, or the number of chains you started with minus 2)

Row 2              ch2, turn, make 1blhtr in every stitch along

Row 3              repeat row 2

Row 4              *ch6, skip 2 stitches, make 1dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way along (6 loops)

Row 5              ch6, turn, make 1dc in the ch6 loop, ch6, make 1dc in the following loop**, repeat from * to ** all the way along (6 loops)

Row 6              repeat row 5

Row 7              repeat row 5

Row 8              ch2, turn, make 3htr in every ch space along (18 stitches)

Repeat from row 2 to 8 as many times as you like finishing final repeat on row 3

Let me know how you get on!!

Crochet Bee- free pattern

free crochet bee pattern

This is a free pattern for my crochet bee design. This little bee works up quickly and can be made in any yarn weight. I have included a PDF as well as lots of video clips to help you with your crochet bee! The videos were taken at a free zoom bee class that I ran in partnership with Tring Together and our local Justice & Peace Group who are running an initiative to make our town a bee town!

You can download the PDF here:

The bee is worked using amigurumi so there is no need to slip stitch to join each round, instead he is worked in a spiral. It is useful to mark the final stitch pf each round with a stitch marker.

You will need any yarn weight and one hook size smaller than you would normally use- black, yellow & white, stitch marker, stuffing and optional safety eyes (or if you don’t have safety eyes these can be sewn on!)

In yellow

Make a magic ring

Round 1        make 6dc in the ring

Round 2        make 2dc into every stitch around (12dc in total)

Rounds 3&4 make 1 dc in every stitch around, change to black in last stitch of round 4

Rounds 5&6 in black make one dc in every stitch around, change to yellow in last stitch of round 6

Rounds 7&8 make 1dc in every stitch around

Round 9        dc2tog in every stitch around (6 stitches)

Stuff and sew the hole together, insert eyes as pictured. These have no back, so you may like to use glue to hold them in place.

Wings (make 2)

In white make a magic ring

In the ring make 1htr, 2tr, 1htr, sl st, fasten off, pull ring tight and sew to back of bee

I hope you enjoyed making your crochet bee. It would be great if you could share your make on social media using #crochetfreebee.

You can also find a lovely, welcoming group of crocheters over on my Facebook group:

Sam x

FREE Mini Rag Wreath Class

Hi all! I am so excited to announce that on Tuesday 22nd of December I will be hosting a free rag wreath zoom class which anyone can join!! This is a collaboration with Tring Together as part of their brilliant advent calendar- a count down of free online activities in the lead up to Christmas:

Rag wreaths are fun and easy to make, anyone can make them so they make a fantastic family activity. My children love making them! They’re also brilliant for recycling as you can use up old fabric, ribbons, buttons, beads, christmas decs, as well as natural materials such as pine cones and holly leaves.

If you would like to take part you will need to gather up some materials beforehand, which you will find listed below.

Alternatively, you can buy a kit from me for socially distanced collection from my house in Tring- kits include 20cm wreath frame, 4 x lengths of Christmas fabric which you will need to cut beforehand, floristry wire, ribbon, pine cones, baubles and other festive decorations. You can buy your kit here:

If using your own materials you will need:

a metal hoop approx 20-25cm in diameter- I use floristry wire wreath frames which you can buy online (or from me) or you can make your own using a wire clothes hanger twisted into a circle

fabric cut into 15cm x 3cm strips (around 50cm x 1m of fabric in total)

decorations e.g. ribbon, baubles, pine cones…. anything you like!!

When / Where?

The live class will take place on Tuesday 22nd December 10am-11am on zoom. Anyone is welcome to join- this would make a great family activity if you would like to take part with your children or grandchildren but I would be grateful if you could ensure that an adult is overseeing them.

If you would like to join please email me at and I will send you the zoom joining information.

Hope to see you then!

Sam x

Hug Me Shawl- FREE crochet pattern

hug me shawl free pattern
hug me shawl free pattern

Welcome to my hug-me shawl free pattern!

One of the things I have found hardest about lock down is not being able to hug my extended family and friends. So I came up with the idea of an alternative hug- a hug in a shawl!!

This shawl is such a lovely make- based on a straightforward pattern of repeats it works up quickly and would make a fantastic christmas present for someone who you are missing hugging!! Ideal for someone who has learnt the basics of crochet but would like to try something new or for the more experienced crocheter who’s looking for a quick and satisfying make. It also gives you the perfect excuse to experiment with yarn cakes!! So far I have tried Lion Brand shawl in a cake and Stylecraft batik whirl- both worked really well! or you might like to stash bust! Anything goes with this shawl!

Here’s a printable PDF for those that like to print:

free shawl pattern
Stylecraft batik whirl
free crochet shawl pattern
Lion Brand shawl in a cake

You will need:

Approx 500-1000m yarn in any yarn weight

Appropriate hook size (see yarn wrapper)

Ch 4, sl st to first ch to make a ring (be careful not to twist)

Row 1            ch3, make 3 tr in the ring, ch2, make 4tr in the ring (8 stitches)

Row 2            ch3, turn, make 2tr in the first stitch (the one at the base of the ch3), make 1tr in each of the next 3 tr, in the ch2 space make (2tr, ch2, 2tr), make 1tr in each of the next 3 stitches, make 3tr in 3rd chain of ch3 (16 stitches)

Row 3            ch3, turn, make 2tr in first stitch (the one at the base of the ch3), ch1, skip one stitch, *make 1tr in the next stitch, ch1, skip one stitch**, repeat from * to ** until ch2 space, in ch2 space make (2tr, ch2, 2tr),ch1, skip one stitch, repeat from * to ** until last stitch (this is the initial 3ch from round 2), make 3tr in 3rd ch of 3ch (24 stitches)

Row 4            ch3, turn, make 2tr in first stitch (the one at the base of the ch3), make 1tr in each of the next 2 trebles, make 1tr in the chain space *make 1tr in the next stitch, make 1tr in the following chain space)**, repeat from * to ** until the last 2 stitches before the ch space, make 1tr into each of these stitches, in ch2 space make (2tr, ch2, 2tr), make 1tr into each of the next 2 stitches, make 1tr in ch1 space, repeat from * to ** until the last 3 stitches, make 1tr into each of the next 2 stitches, make 3tr in 3rd of 3ch (32 stitches)

Repeat rows 3 & 4 until shawl is desired size.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

TIP: if you want to check stitch count the total number of stitches increases by 8 every row so for example on row 10 you should have a total number of 80 stitches (40 per side), not counting the ch2 space.


The edging is completely optional. I have 2 suggestions for how you might edge it if you choose to:

  1. *Chain 8, skip 2 rows, sl st in the space at the end of the next row** repeat all the way along the shawl
  • Sl st in the edge of shawl, *make the following sequence into the ends of the rows: 1dc, 1,htr, 1tr, (2dtr, ch1, 2dtr), 1tr, 1htr, 1dc, sl st**, repeat from * to ** all the way up and down the shawl, including the ch 2 space at the bottom.

I hope you enjoy making your shawl! Don’t forget to share photos over on the crochet hangout on Facebook:

Sam xx

hug me shawl pattern

Beginners Punch Needle – FREE online tutorial

beginners punch needle
beginners punch needle

Welcome to me beginners punch needle tutorial and thank you so much for joining me on my punch needle adventures! I am far from an expert but have learnt a lot since I first gave it a try and wanted to share what I’d learnt with you!

If you need some equipment I have a getting started with punch needle kit available to buy here:

The general principle- how does it work?

You use the punch needle to push your thread through the fabric to the back, you then pull it back through to the front and the thread catches in the fabric making a loop on the back and a flat stitch on the front.

The stitch is simply made because the thread catches in the fabric. These loops and stitches make the texture of the picture and you can choose whether to use the effect of loops (in which case work from the back) or flat stitches (worked from the front), or a combination of both (more about that later!) You can also cut the loops to make a tufty pile effect.

beginners punch needle

What you will need:

  1. A punch needle

You can choose whether to use an adjustable or non-adjustable needle.

Non-adjustable punch needles are one size, the size refers to the height of the loops that the needle makes. Each needle size is available in regular (for dk, aran, chunky or super chunky yarn) and fine (for embroidery floss and other fine thread). A 9 or 10mm punch needle is a good starting point. These tend to have wooden handles and feel comfy and sturdy to grip.

Adjustable needles can be adjusted to make different size loops and have several settings. On the plus side they save buying lots of different size needles but I have found them to be a bit flimsy and the plastic one I first worked with fell apart in about 5 minutes!! Having said that, I have now invested in a Milwards one and it is much sturdier. So if you are going to buy one perhaps get a reliable brand.

  • Monks cloth

Monks cloth is a special cloth which is perfect for punch needle. It comes in different count sizes (which refers to the number of stitches per inch) and 12 count is ideal as it is a good size to hold the thread when it is punched through. You can also try fabrics such as loose weave denim. Bare in mind that if a fabric is too tight the needle will damage it, if it’s too loose it won’t catch the thread and the stitches will just come straight out.

  • Embroidery hoop or frame.

This is used to stretch the monks cloth tight so that you can punch the needle through. You can buy different sizes of embroidery hoops and frames to suit your needs. Non-slip ones are good and the wooden ones make nice frames too. If you don’t want to buy a hoop you can make use of old photo frames at home- simply stretch the fabric around the frame and use a staple gun to staple it to the back. Or if you are good with a hammer and nails you can make your frames!! (I haven’t convinced my husband to help with me with yet but I’ll keep trying!!)

We stretched the cloth across an old frame to make our poodle.

  • Thread/Yarn

Here comes the great news- if you are a crocheter or knitter punch needle makes the perfect stash buster!! You can use any thread or yarn you like and can have a lot of fun trying out different types. A thicker yarn is good for bigger, chunkier stitches or loops and thinner for smaller stitches and loops. So if your picture is quite detailed you might need to try a thinner yarn. If you haven’t got a chunky yarn don’t worry because you can double up thinner yarn to make it the thickness you want.

Wool has a nice finish to it but I have had a lot of fun stash busting with anything I can get my hands on including cotton, acrylic and wool and have loved all of the results. As with crochet and knitting the slidier the yarn the easier it is (cotton can be splitty but just takes more patience). Anything with bobbles in is going to be trickier to work with (my llama was a labour of love with the bobbly turquoise yarn I chose!)

  • Others

Masking tape, a felt tip pen or dissovable fabric pen and a pair of scissors are also useful!!

  • A design to work from

I have included 3 designs at the end of this handout, all suitable for use on a 20cm frame. These all make a great starting point, although having tried them all I can confirm that the cloud picture is the easiest so might be the best one to start with.

Let’s get started!!

Prepare your work:

  1. Cut out a piece of monks cloth to fit your frame. Allow an overlap of around 2-3cm to ensure it fits.
  • Put masking tape around the edges of the cloth, folding it over from one side to the other so that the edge in encased. This is not essential but really helps it not to fray as you work.
  • Trace your design onto your cloth. The easiest way to do this is to tape the design to a window then tape the clothe over the top, you will then be able to see the outline through the cloth. This technique is called light boxing. Trace with any felt tip pen (or dissolvable fabric pen if you have one). We are going to cover all of the fabric with yarn so don’t worry if you go wrong! When you’ve finished take it down and check whether you have got all of the details, you might want to use your pen to make the outline clearer.
  • Take your embroidery hoop apart. Place the cloth over the bottom ring, then put the top ring (the one with the metal adjuster) over the top, making sure the design is central. Stretch it out by pulling the edges as much as possible and tighten the adjuster.
beginners punch needle
  • You are ready to punch!! I have explained how to do this is the next sections.

Prepare your punch needle:

  1. Choose a needle size to match your yarn size- regular needles work with dk, aran, chunky and super chunky, fine needles work with embroidery thread, 2ply and 4ply. Remember the measurement (i.e. 10mm, 9mm etc) refers to the size of the loop it makes, not the width of the yarn. It’s the regular/ fine that refers to the thickness of yarn to use with it.
  • Choose your yarn. Have a think about what effect you would like to achieve remembering that chunky yarn makes big stitches or loops and thinner yarn makes smaller stitches or loops. You can use different yarns to create different effects in one piece of work.
beginners punch needle

For my llama picture I chose to use some yarn my friend had given me that she was threatening to throw away because she couldn’t think of a use for it! I chose the bobbly turquoise acrylic in loopy stitches for the body, pink wool in flat stitches for the details, beige bobbly acrylic for flat stitches in the background and black cotton for the eyes and nose.

For the cloud picture I used my Drop Nepal aran weight woolly stash

  • Thread your needle- push your needle threader from the tip of the needle (the bit that looks like the nib of a fountain pen), down and out of the other end. Put your yarn through the loop and gently pull back through, pull the yarn out of the metal loop. You then need to thread the yarn through the eye of the needle (the hole in the bit that looks like a fountain pen nib). Push the threader through this, put yarn in the loop of the threader and pull back through.

How to start punching

  1. Make a plan!

Decide which colour and texture you would like for each part of your design. You can choose to punch from the front or back of your fabric. Working from the front will produce flat embroidery stitches. Working from the back produces loopy stitches. Or you can choose to use a combination of both.

TIP: Look at your design and try to see it as a series of shapes that need filling in. Which shapes will you fill with flat stitches and which will you fill with loopy stitches? For example with our poodle we decided that his hair and ears would be loopy and the rest of him would be flat stitches. For the cloud picture I wanted a fluffy cloud and for the rest of it to be smooth.

beginners punch needle
  • Start with the outline. Choose a colour for your outline. You will start by outlining all of your design, working from the front, exactly as you would with a normal drawing.
beginners punch needle
beginners punch needle
  • Hold the punch needle with the open part of the nib facing in the direction that you would like to punch, so the tail of yarn will be at the back.  *Push the needle straight down through the fabric all the way until the handle hits the fabric. Now slowly pull the needle back up through the fabric, STOPPING as the nib comes to the surface. Do not lift the nib above the surface of the fabric. The trick is to keep the nib of the needle in contact with the fabric.
beginners punch needle
  • Slowly move the nib forward (with open part facing forward and tail of yarn coming out the back) along the fabric in the direction of the outline, keeping it in contact with the fabric at all times. Look carefully at the fabric, you will see it is divided into tiny squares. Move your pen nib approx. 2 squares in the direction of the outline. Push the pen back down through the fabric and repeat from * in step 3.

TIP Keep the end of yarn coming out of the top of the punch needle slack. If it tightens up the yarn will simply pull out of the cloth and fail to make a stitch.

  • To turn your work you need to keep the needle pushed into the work, turn the frame, make sure your needle is facing the right way and pull it out to make a new stitch.
  • If you need to fasten off and restart in a different place simply pull your needle out of the fabric so that there is a couple of centimetres of yarn, snip it, then use your closed scissors to push the yarn end down through the cloth (in exactly the same place as it’s coming out) to tuck it out of sight on the reverse of the cloth.
  • Once you have completed the outline you can start filling in the spaces. Now you need to choose whether you want to work from the front (to get flat stitches), or the back (to get loopy stitches). I chose to do the body of the llama next and wanted it to be loopy so turned the frame over to work from the other side.

Use the outline to guide you as you fill in the spaces. Make the stitches in the same way as before, working around and around the inside of the outline and keeping them as close together as possible. If you are working from the back of the work check that the stitches are coming out ok on the front.

An example of working from the back to make loops.


Take your time getting to know your punch needle and don’t worry if things go wrong!!

Here are some common problems:

The stitch keeps coming out

There are several things that might be causing this:

  • Check the yarn has enough slack on the top of the pen. Pull some loops off of the ball of yarn to keep this loop and check that you haven’t caught the end of the yarn on anything/ My daughter kept leaning on her yarn end which pulled it out of the stitch.
  • Also check that you are pushing the needle all the way into the cloth until the handle meets the cloth, then slowly pulling the needle back up.
  • Your stitches might be too far apart, try making smaller stitches.
  • Try slowing down! Go really slowly and gently at first.

I lifted the nib of the punch needle off of the cloth and now there’s a big loop

Gently pull the yarn at the top of the needle so that the yarn coming out of the nib tightens up a bit, place your nib back on the cloth and try again.

I pulled the loops out and now there’s big holes in the cloth

Gently rub at the cloth on the front and back and you will find that the holes close up ready for you to try working them again.

Allotment Jumper

allotment jumper

I made my allotment jumper using my granny square designs from the Autumn Grannys crochet along in 2020. All of the patterns for the squares were free and you can sign up here: All of my designs had 19 stitches along each side which really helped when it came to joining them together.

This is a very laid back pattern. I have written it to be adaptable and therefore haven’t included precise stitch counts. This is a really good starting point to clothes making as you can’t really go wrong, be prepared to have fun with the pattern and play about as you go!

You can use any combination of granny squares that you like for this pattern.

The allotment jumper is one size fits all – my squares were each approx 12cm x 12cm and I made 50 squares – 25 for the front and 25 for the back. I’m a size 16/ 18 and 5ft 8in so hopefully that will give you an idea of how the jumper might look on you!

I do have a few suggestions for altering the size though- if you would like to make a smaller jumper you might only need 40 squares (20 for the back and 20 for the front). Alternatively you could try using a smaller hook size so that your squares turn out smaller. If you would like to make a larger jumper you can make more squares (try 60 – 30 front, 30 back), or you can use a bigger hook so that your squares are bigger.

I used Stylecraft Special dk and a 4mm hook.

For the body

Start by making your granny squares, I made a fairly random selection from my autumn grannys cal – 3 toadstools, 4 pumpkins and 43 solid granny squares. The sunflower, falling leaves and fox weren’t designed at this point so I kept my selection to these 3!

I made 50 squares in total- 25 for the front and 25 for the back. I then laid them out in two 5 x 5 grids and played about until I was happy with the arrangement. You can have a lot of fun with this and I don’t really think you can go wrong!

I crocheted the squares together by slip stitching them on the back. Start with the bottom row of squares and join two squares first, then join these two to a third, and keep going until you have 5 squares joined in a horizontal strip. Repeat this for all of the rows so that you have 5 strips, you can then join the strips lengthways.

TIP: to slip stitch together hold 2 squares right sides facing, join yarn in corner working through the corresponding corner spaces on both squares, sl st in same corner space, put hook through next stitch of front square and corresponding square behind, make a sl st, repeat across all of the stitches, working through both squares each time, sl st in final corner space, fasten off (21 slip stitches.

You will then have 2 big squares with 25 squares in total. Put the two sides right sides facing and use safety pin style stitch markers to join them together. I fastened them from the bottom up 3.5 squares (leaving 1.5 squares free at the top for arm holes). I did the same the other side. I then put stitch markers at the top corners and 1.5 squares in from either side to mark a neck hole. I then TRIED IT ON, stitch markers and all!! At this stage you can have a shift about to change the fit if you would like to.

allotment jumper

Once you are happy with the fit you can slip stitch the two sides together along one edge from the bottom up to the arm hole stitch marker. Repeat for the other side. Slip stitch across the top from the corner to the next hole on both sides.

Weave in ends and turn the top right side out (slip stitches will be on the inside)

You now have the body of the allotment jumper- all you need to do is to add sleeves and edges.

For the sleeves:

Please note that you work the rest of the allotment jumper with it right side out, so when you are crocheting you should be looking at the right side of it!

I purposefully haven’t included stitch counts because you may have altered where you sew your jumper together for fit which will alter the size of the sleeves. You might like to count the stitches at the end of round 1 and make a note of the number to ensure that both sleeves are the same when you come to make the second sleeve.

Join the yarn at beginning of armhole in edge of the jumper where you finished sewing up the side.

Round 1 ch3, working into just one edge of the jumper (NOT through both sides), make 1tr in every stitch along, when you come to a ch2 corner space make 2tr, work all the way around the edge of the sleeve until you have gone in a circle (up to the top and back down the other side), sl st to 3rd chain of ch3

Round 2 ch3, make 1tr in every stitch around, sl st to 3rd ch of 3ch

Rounds 3-12 repeat round 2

Round 13 ch3, tr2tog, make 1tr in every stitch up to approx top of jumper, tr2tog x 2, make 1tr in every stitch until 2 stitches before end of round, tr2tog, sl st to 3rd ch of ch3

Rounds 14-18 repeat round 2

Round 19 repeat round 13

Rounds 20-24 repeat round 2

Round 25 repeat round 13

Rounds 26 until sleeve is approx. 5cm less than desired length – repeat round 2 (make a note of the number of rows for your second sleeve)

Work second sleeve in exactly the same way.

To make the edges (cuffs and bottom of the jumper)

The sleeve cuffs and bottom of the allotment jumper are made in the same way-

for sleeves continue from final row, for bottom edge you will need to join yarn in bottom of the jumper at the back.

round 1. ch2, make 1htr in every stitch around (when you come to a ch2 space on the bottom of the jumper make 2htr in the space), sl st to 2nd chain of ch2

round 2- end. ch2, *make 1fphtr around first stitch, make 1bphtr around next stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around

Repeat round 2 until you are happy with the length of the cuffs/ edge (I did 5 rounds in total)

For the neckline

Round 1. Rejoin yarn at top corner of neckline, ch1, make 1dc in ever stitch around, sl st to 1st dc.

Round 2. ch1 make 1dc in every stitch around, sl st to first dc, fasten off

Weave in all ends securely!!!!

I hope you love your allotment jumper as much as I love mine!!!

Beer Bottle Crochet Bunting- free pattern

I wrote this pattern in 2018 for a friend who was going camping and wanted some crochet bunting for her tent that her husband would approve of!!! You can change the type of beer by changing the colour of the bottle and the embroidered name!

Written in UK crochet terms.

Beer Bottle Bunting

Make as many as you like to make your bunting!

You will need:

Aran weight cotton in green, blue and white

4mm hook

Embroidery thread

In green chain 9

Row 1            Make 1dc in second chain from the hook and every chain along (8 dc in total)

Row 2            chain 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along

Rows 3-5      repeat row 2, fasten off at end of row 5

Row 6            join blue, ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along, fasten off

Row 7            join white, ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along

Row 8            ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along

Rows 9 -11   repeat row 8, fasten off at end of row 11

Row 12          join blue, ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along, fasten off

Row 13          join green, ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along

Rows 14-16  ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along

Row 17          ch1, dc2tog, make 1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches, dc2tog

Row 18          ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along (6 dc in total)

Row 19          ch 1, dc2tog, make 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, dc2tog (4 stitches in total)

Rows 20&21 ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along, fasten off at the end of row 21

Row 22          join blue, ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch along

Row 23          ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch, fasten off

Row 24          join white, ch 1 make 1 dc in every stitch, fasten off

Row 25          join green, ch1 make 1 dc in every stitch, fasten off

Row 26          join white, ch 1, make 1 dc in every stitch, fasten off

Weave in ends

Rejoin green at the end of row 25 (at the left hand edge of the bottle), make 1 dc in same space make 1 dc at the end of every row working down the bottle, on the bottom row make 2dc to make a corner, make 1dc in every stitch along the bottom, make 2dc at the other end of the row, work back up the side of the bottle making 1 dc in the end of every row until you reach the other end of row 25. Fasten off and weave in ends

Free Funky Skirt Crochet Pattern

This is a super easy and very adjustable pattern for a child’s crochet skirt. You can really have fun with it!

I have written it so that it can be made to fit the individual child but have also included the measurements that I used for my daughter’s skirt- she is a small 10 year old so if you follow my instructions it should fit an 8-12 year old. I think it would also make a fab skirt for an adult. I haven’t lined my daughter’s as she will wear it with thick tights or leggings but you could easily line it- I have included some instructions at the end of the pattern.

The skirt is worked from the bottom up. You will start by working in rounds of trebles then at the waist line you will decrease to gather the skirt in. The decrease can be adjusted for a precise fit.

This pattern is written in UK crochet terms.

Special stitches:

Front post treble (fptr) = put yoh first, at the front of the work insert hook around the post of the treble from right to left (you will go left to right if you are left handed), yoh, pull yarn back through, yoh, oull through 2 loops on hook, yoh, pull through last 2 loops.

Back post treble (bptr)= put yoh first, from behind the work insert hook from right to left, yoh, pull yarn back through, yoh, oull through 2 loops, yoh, pull through last 2 loops.

I used DK yarn (Stylecraft Special DK) but it can be made in any yarn weight or material due to the adjustable nature of the pattern- I would love to see it made in cotton! For a 10 year old child we used 200g.

Use the hook size that is suggested for the yarn (unless you normally adjust for tension). I used a 4mm hook for the DK yarn.

To start:

Make a chain that will fit loosely around the wearer’s legs just above the knee (think about how tightly you would like the skirt to fit at the bottom, we went quite loose for my daughter)

For my daughter I used a chain of 135

Make sure that there are no twists in the chain, slip stitch to the first chain to make a big loop.

Round 1        Chain 3, make 1 treble in every chain around, slip stitch in the 3rd of the 3 chain (135 stitches)

(NB: in every round be careful not to work a treble into the slip stitch as this will add an increase)

Round 2       Chain 3, *make 1 fptr around the next stitch, make 1 bptr around the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** around, sl                         st to 3rd of 3 chain

Round 3       Repeat round 2

This will make a ribbed edging to the skirt. You will now continue in plain rows of trebles.

Round 4      Chain 3, make 1 treble into every stitch around, slip stitch in the 3rd of the 3 chain

Repeat round 4 until the skirt is the desired length (for us this was 35 rounds in total)

You will now work on the waistband, starting with a round of decreases. I worked the decrease by skipping every other stitch as this gives it a gathered look.

Chain 1, *make 1 dc in the next stitch, skip one stitch, make 1 dc in the following stitch** repeat from * to ** all the way around, sl s in ch 1.

Now try the skirt on the wearer! For my daughter this fitted perfectly but you may need to adjust the decreases to change the fit. This may take a bit of experimenting!

If the skirt is too loose you can add another round of decreases. Alternatively you can add some elastic at the end of the make, I will explain how to do this later in the pattern.

If the skirt is too tight you will need to undo the first round of decreases and try skipping a dc less frequently on this round, e.g. you might start with making 1 dc into each of the first 2 stitches, then skipping 1 stitch and repeating. Please do message me if you need any help with this round!

Once you are happy with the fit you will continue to build the waistband:

Waistband round:    ch 1, make 1dc into every stitch around, sl st in ch 1

Repeat waistband round for 9 rows in total.

You now have the option to line your skirt. You can also add elastic at this stage to improve the fit (we didn’t need to do this so if it fits well it’s fine without).

Measure the circumference and length of the skirt. Cut out a rectangle of fabric where the long side = the circumference + 1.5cm and the short side = the length + 1.5cm, turn in a hem of 1.5cm all around the long edges and the hem (by hand or machine, it’s up to you!). Sew the short edges together to make a loop of fabric. Pin into skirt, half way up the waistband, adding elastic if you have chosen to, you may need to put a few tucks in the fabric for gathers, just fold the fabric in at regualr intervals around the waistband if necessary, fold the waistband inwards over the fabric and elastic and hand sew together.

Now all you need to do is add the pockets! You could choose to sew fabric pockets onto the skirt (just cut out squares of fabric, turn in a hem and sew and hand sew to skirt), or you can use any granny square pattern you like!

I used this gorgeous granny square heart pattern by Lucia Lanukas

And that’s it!! My daughter loves hers and couldn’t wait to try it on!!

As usual I’d love to see photos of your makes, you can email them to me at, or find me on facebook or instagram @remadebysam

Have fun!

Sam xx

PS The technical stuff- you are welcome to share this pattern or make skirts to sell but please could you reference my design and ownership of the pattern- thank you!!!

Crochet Easter Basket


Easter 2015

We love an Easter egg hunt in our house: as soon as Christmas is over the children start the countdown to the visit from the Easter bunny. It’s a tradition that began for me as a child, when apparently I came home from school full of excitement and expectations about the Easter bunny. And my lovely mum devotedly continued to uphold this well into our teenage years!

Now that I am mummy to four children I love carrying on this tradition for them. It’s become a carefully planned operation which involves a very dedicated hubby setting the alarm to get up at the crack of dawn in order to ensure that the eggs are well hidden before the children wake. The children, of course wake shortly after, throw on their dressing gowns and set off into the garden to explore the well tested hiding spaces (under the slide-check, shed window sill- check, peg bag-check!) When we lived in Southend they collected their goodies in seaside buckets but over the last couple of the years the buckets have deteriorated and last year we resorted to carrier bags. So I have decided to organise myself this year and put my crochet skills to use..

Here’s my pattern for an Easter basket. Even if the bunny doesn’t visit your house it would make a lovely gift basket…


Written in UK crochet terms


One ball of Sugar ‘n Cream Aran cotton yarn (I bought mine from wool warehouse) or you can use any aran weight cotton- you will need approx 100m

scraps of 4 ply yarn for flowers

4mm hook

3mm hook


This pattern uses an amigurumi technique so I would recommend using a stitch marker to mark your first or last stitch on each round. For this technique you work in a spiral putting the first stitch of each round in the first stitch of the previous round, there is no need to secure each round with a slip stitch.

Crochet Easter Basket

Use the Sugar ‘n Cream yarn and 4mm hook.

Make a magic ring (make a loop of yarn, put hook through and pull a loop yarn through the ring, make one chain to secure). Or if you prefer you can make a ring by making 6 chains and slip stitching into the first chain.

Round 1          Make 6 dc into the ring

Round 2          2 dc into every stitch around (12 dc)

Round 3         *1 dc in the next stitch, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (18)

Round 4         *1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (24)

Round 5         *1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (30)

Round 6         *1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (36)

Round 7         *1 dc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (42)

Round 8         *1 dc in each of the next 6 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (48)

Round 9         *1 dc in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (54)

Round 10       *1 dc in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 dc in the following stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around (60)

Round 11         Make 1 dc into the front loop only of each stitch (60)

Round 12         Make 1 dc into every stitch around (60)

Round 13-20  Repeat round 12 (60)

Round 21         *dc, ch1, skip 1 dc from previous round, dc into next dc* repeat from * to**all the way around (30 dc and 30 chain 1 spaces making spaces to thread the ribbon through)

Round 22        *dc into the dc from previous round, dc into ch 1 space** repeat from * to ** all the way around (60 dc)

Round 23         dc into every stitch around (60)

Round 24         *dc into first stitch, 2 dc into next**, repeat from * to ** all the way around

Fasten off and weave in ends

To make the handle (this is worked in rows then sewn onto the basket)

Ch 36

Row 1                  dc into second chain from the hook and every stitch along

Row 2                 ch 1, dc into every stitch along

Row 3&4            repeat row 2

Fasten off and use tails to sew the handle onto the basket

Weave ribbon through the spaces left in round 21, tie a bow


Use the 3 mm hook and scraps of 4 ply yarn.

In centre colour make a magic circle (or chain 2 and work into second chain from the hook)

Round 1          Make 10 dc in the ring, fasten off

Round 2          Join new colour in any dc, *ch 1, in next dc make 1 tr, 2 dtr, 1 tr,ch 1,then sl st in next dc** repeat from * to ** 4 more times to make 5 petals


Use the 3 mm hook and scraps of 4 ply yarn

Chain 7, make a dc in second chain from hook, 1 htr in next chain, 1 tr in next, 1 tr in next, htr in next, dc in last, turn work upside down and work into the bottom of the stitches in the following sequence- dc, htr, 2 tr, htr, dc so that stitches are mirrored.

Make as many flowers and leaves as you like and attach to basket by sewing on with the tails.

As you can see I also embroidered my daughter’s name on. My other daughter has already requested a turquoise one which I can’t wait to make, and then I’ll have a little think about a more boyish one.. Maybe one with bunny ears!


I hope you enjoy making your Easter baskets- let me know how you get on!

Sam x

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