Allotment Jumper

I made my allotment jumper using my granny square designs from the Autumn Grannys crochet along in 2020. All of the patterns for the squares were free and you can sign up here: All of my designs had 19 stitches along each side which really helped when it came to joining them together.

This is a very laid back pattern. I have written it to be adaptable and therefore haven’t included precise stitch counts. This is a really good starting point to clothes making as you can’t really go wrong, be prepared to have fun with the pattern and play about as you go!

You can use any combination of granny squares that you like for this pattern.

The allotment jumper is one size fits all – my squares were each approx 12cm x 12cm and I made 50 squares – 25 for the front and 25 for the back. I’m a size 16/ 18 and 5ft 8in so hopefully that will give you an idea of how the jumper might look on you!

I do have a few suggestions for altering the size though- if you would like to make a smaller jumper you might only need 40 squares (20 for the back and 20 for the front). Alternatively you could try using a smaller hook size so that your squares turn out smaller. If you would like to make a larger jumper you can make more squares (try 60 – 30 front, 30 back), or you can use a bigger hook so that your squares are bigger.

I used Stylecraft Special dk and a 4mm hook.

For the body

Start by making your granny squares, I made a fairly random selection from my autumn grannys cal – 3 toadstools, 4 pumpkins and 43 solid granny squares. The sunflower, falling leaves and fox weren’t designed at this point so I kept my selection to these 3!

I made 50 squares in total- 25 for the front and 25 for the back. I then laid them out in two 5 x 5 grids and played about until I was happy with the arrangement. You can have a lot of fun with this and I don’t really think you can go wrong!

I crocheted the squares together by slip stitching them on the back. Start with the bottom row of squares and join two squares first, then join these two to a third, and keep going until you have 5 squares joined in a horizontal strip. Repeat this for all of the rows so that you have 5 strips, you can then join the strips lengthways.

TIP: to slip stitch together hold 2 squares right sides facing, join yarn in corner working through the corresponding corner spaces on both squares, sl st in same corner space, put hook through next stitch of front square and corresponding square behind, make a sl st, repeat across all of the stitches, working through both squares each time, sl st in final corner space, fasten off (21 slip stitches.

You will then have 2 big squares with 25 squares in total. Put the two sides right sides facing and use safety pin style stitch markers to join them together. I fastened them from the bottom up 3.5 squares (leaving 1.5 squares free at the top for arm holes). I did the same the other side. I then put stitch markers at the top corners and 1.5 squares in from either side to mark a neck hole. I then TRIED IT ON, stitch markers and all!! At this stage you can have a shift about to change the fit if you would like to.

allotment jumper

Once you are happy with the fit you can slip stitch the two sides together along one edge from the bottom up to the arm hole stitch marker. Repeat for the other side. Slip stitch across the top from the corner to the next hole on both sides.

Weave in ends and turn the top right side out (slip stitches will be on the inside)

You now have the body of the allotment jumper- all you need to do is to add sleeves and edges.

For the sleeves:

Please note that you work the rest of the allotment jumper with it right side out, so when you are crocheting you should be looking at the right side of it!

I purposefully haven’t included stitch counts because you may have altered where you sew your jumper together for fit which will alter the size of the sleeves. You might like to count the stitches at the end of round 1 and make a note of the number to ensure that both sleeves are the same when you come to make the second sleeve.

Join the yarn at beginning of armhole in edge of the jumper where you finished sewing up the side.

Round 1 ch3, working into just one edge of the jumper (NOT through both sides), make 1tr in every stitch along, when you come to a ch2 corner space make 2tr, work all the way around the edge of the sleeve until you have gone in a circle (up to the top and back down the other side), sl st to 3rd chain of ch3

Round 2 ch3, make 1tr in every stitch around, sl st to 3rd ch of 3ch

Rounds 3-12 repeat round 2

Round 13 ch3, tr2tog, make 1tr in every stitch up to approx top of jumper, tr2tog x 2, make 1tr in every stitch until 2 stitches before end of round, tr2tog, sl st to 3rd ch of ch3

Rounds 14-18 repeat round 2

Round 19 repeat round 13

Rounds 20-24 repeat round 2

Round 25 repeat round 13

Rounds 26 until sleeve is approx. 5cm less than desired length – repeat round 2 (make a note of the number of rows for your second sleeve)

Work second sleeve in exactly the same way.

To make the edges (cuffs and bottom of the jumper)

The sleeve cuffs and bottom of the allotment jumper are made in the same way-

for sleeves continue from final row, for bottom edge you will need to join yarn in bottom of the jumper at the back.

round 1. ch2, make 1htr in every stitch around (when you come to a ch2 space on the bottom of the jumper make 2htr in the space), sl st to 2nd chain of ch2

round 2- end. ch2, *make 1fphtr around first stitch, make 1bphtr around next stitch**, repeat from * to ** all the way around

Repeat round 2 until you are happy with the length of the cuffs/ edge (I did 5 rounds in total)

For the neckline

Round 1. Rejoin yarn at top corner of neckline, ch1, make 1dc in ever stitch around, sl st to 1st dc.

Round 2. ch1 make 1dc in every stitch around, sl st to first dc, fasten off

Weave in all ends securely!!!!

I hope you love your allotment jumper as much as I love mine!!!

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